San Fereolo, Barbera "Austri" Langhe, Piedmont, Italy 2004

95% Barbera, 5% Nebbiolo

While much of the Piemonte eagerly pushes the greatest wines to market as soon as they are in bottle, “Austri” is one of two cuvées from San Fereolo that offer a patient alternative. A study in terroir and evolution, this is a stunning wine with a beautiful consistency.

Nicoletta Bocca has been the driving force at San Fereolo since she acquired the property in 1992, during which time she has mastered the terroir of her Valdibà subzone and completed the conversion to certified biodynamic (Demeter). The estate is among the greatest references for the terroir of Dogliani – located immediately south of Barolo — and the Dogliani DOCG is home to some of the greatest Dolcetto vineyards in the Piemonte.

In addition to the Dolcetto holdings, San Fereolo has several important parcels of Barbera, which are assembled with a touch of Nebbiolo for this Langhe Rosso cuvée known as “Austri.”

The grapes are mostly from southwest and southeast-facing vines in the Austri parcel in the Valdiberti subsection of Dogliani, along with smaller plantings in the south southwest-facing Costabella and Cerri Sottani vineyards in the Valdibà subsection of Dogliani. Harvest is manual; after total destemming and crushing, the wine ferments spontaneously in wooden tini. Cuvaison lasts 10-20 days.

This wine remains on its lees with occasional bâtonnage prior to bottling. It undergoes spontaneous malolactic fermentation following the alcoholic fermentation. It ages for 2-3 years in Slavonion botti, and is bottled unfined and unfiltered.