Henri & Gilles Buisson, Chardonnay, Saint-Romain "Sous Le Chateau" Côte de Beaune, Burgundy, France 2019

“Sous le Chateau” is Buisson’s warmest, best-exposed holding, and this 2019 offers more amplitude, concentration, and thickness than the three wines above. If “La Perriere” is Grand Cru Chablis, “Sous le Chateau” is Chevalier-Montrachet. The minerality here, while just as intense as that of “La Perriere,” is more team player than ball hog, and the wine carries itself extremely gracefully despite its largeness. A quinine-drenched nose combines the limestone power of “La Perriere” with the soil imprint of “Sous la Velle,” and the broad, almost viscous palate still delivers ringing acidity—a testament both to the Buisson brothers’ sensitivity and to the advantage Saint-Romain possesses in an ever-warming climate.